The art of origami is something so beautiful and yet so fragile. Most of the time it’s hard to find hip or interesting patterns on traditional origami paper. Never again! With the Printable Origami Papers site you’ll be able to download and print out on your computer some of the freshest patterns around. You can also check out the flickr gallery to see what others are making or sign up for the origami forum. Link.
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You may also want to try this link I posted on my blog paperforest.com awhile back.
It has even more pattern to print out!
http://cp.c-ij.com/english/3D-papercraft/origami/index.html
I found this site with instructional videos on how to make a wide variety of origami objects. If interested in making different origami projects and are more of a visual learner. Check it out.
http://hobbies.expertvillage.com/interviews/origami.htm
I found this site with instructional videos on how to make a wide variety of origami objects. If interested in making different origami projects and are more of a visual learner. Check it out.
http://hobbies.expertvillage.com/interviews/origami.htm
This origami model is an advanced level project that will take approximately twenty minutes to complete. If you are a beginner, gain some experience first by folding some less complex models. Once you are ready to attempt this model, remember to follow each step carefully and move on to the next step only when you are confident that all prior steps have been correctly completed.
In origami, even the most complex models can be folded with a minimum of equipment. All you need in order to complete this figure is a square of paper and a place to work. Use any paper you happen to have on hand for practice, although your model will look better if the paper’s weight is at least that of the standard sheet of copy paper. After you have successfully folded the model a few times, then move on to special colored or patterned paper, if desired.
You will also need a suitable place to work. Folding against a hard, flat, stable surface will allow you to make more accurate folds and sharper creases than if you used a soft or cushioned surface. Tables work best but hardback books and floors will also do nicely. To make your creases even sharper, try running a pencil or ruler edge over each one as you work.
1. Position a square of paper on you work surface so that its points are facing up and down, left and right. If you are using two-sided paper, make sure the color you want for the exterior of the model is facing down.
2. Bring the left point of the model over to meet the right point. Crease and unfold.
3. Bring the top point of the model down to meet the bottom point. Crease and unfold.
4. Turn the model over and position it on your work surface so that its edges are facing up and down, left and right.
5. Bring the left edge of the model over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold.
6. Bring the top edge of the model down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and leave folded.
7. Grasp the model at its left and right edges and push inward. It should collapse along the pre-existing folds. The result will be a diamond shape that has one folded flap sticking out toward the back of the model and another sticking out toward the front.
8. Bring the front flap back to meet the left point of the diamond and bring the back flap up to meet the right point. Make sure all of the creases are as sharp as possible and that your model lies as flat as possible. Position the model so that the open end is pointing toward you.
9. Bring the lower left edge of the model (top layer only) over to meet the model’s vertical center line. Crease and unfold. Fold the lower left edge backward along the crease line you just made. Crease and unfold. Repeat for the lower right edge of the model.
10. Bring the top point of the model down toward the bottom of the model, to a point that just past the model’s center. The resulting horizontal crease line should touch the top of each of the crease lines made in Step 9. Crease and unfold.
11. Bring the bottom point of the model (top layer only) up toward the top of the model, opening up the top layer as you go. The top layer will collapse along the crease lines made in Steps 9-10 and the bottom point should come up and behind the top point to touch your work surface. The left and right points of the model will meet at the center. The top layer of the model will resemble a narrow diamond shape. Press flat.
12. Turn the model over and Repeat Steps 9-11.
13. Bring the top point of the model (top layer only) down to meet the bottom point. Press flat. Turn the model over and repeat. The model will now be kite shaped.
14. Grasp the model by its lower points and pull to open it up. Locate the square that is formed by crease lines at the top of the model. You will be refolding the model into the same form it had at the completion of Step 13, so only unfold the model as far as needed to identify the square shape. The model should now have a star shape.
15. Turn the model over and bring the top edge of the square shape in to meet the center. Crease and unfold. Repeat for each edge of the square. The result will be a smaller square shape at the center of the larger square shape. This step will require your manipulating the model a bit. Turn the model over again.
16. Push in at the center of the smaller square you created in Step 15 so that it collapses downward into the center of the model along its crease lines. At the same time, begin to re-form the model by pushing in at all sides. The crease lines of the smaller square will become the blunted, top edge of the model. Press flat.
17. Position the model so that the point is facing away from you.
18. Bring the top point of the model (top layer only) down to form a diamond shaped top layer. Press flat.
19. Bring the lower left edge of the model up to meet the horizontal center crease line. Crease and unfold. Repeat for the lower right edge.
20. Turn the model over and repeat Steps 18-19.
21. Pinch the very bottom point of the model so that the lower left and right edges turn upward. The crease line you make should extend from the tip of the bottom point to the intersection of crease lines made in the previous step. As a result, the point will stick straight up from the model and the upper portions of the lower left and right edges will come up and in to meet the horizontal center line.
22. Blunt the tip of the pointed flap created in the previous step by folding the tip down into the flap’s folds. Pinch to keep in place.
23. Narrow the upright pointed flap a bit by folding its long open edge (both layers) over to the left, in toward the flap’s vertical center. The resulting crease line should taper from the flap’s blunted top edge down to the base in order to shape one of the man’s arms.
24. Bring the arm down to lie flat against the model, just to the left of the vertical center line. The model’s bottom point will automatically come up toward the left side of the model, as well. Press flat so that the bottom point meets the pre-existing horizontal folds at the bottom of the model.
25. Fold the lower right point of the model 9top layer only) backward into the center of the model. The existing crease line should run from the model’s bottom center to its right point. Crease and leave folded. Repeat for second layer of paper, as well, so that its edge is even with that of the first folded layer.
26. Turn the model over to reveal a kite shape with a blunted top edge. Repeat Steps 17-24, reversing folding directions as needed to create a symmetrical model. For example, the second arm formed will lie to the right of the model’s vertical crease line instead of the left.
27. Re-position the model so that the two narrow pointed flaps at the top are now pointing out to the right and the arm that shows is angled downward.
28. Hold the layers of the model together at the left center. Open up the top edge of the upper pointed flap and push upward along its bottom edge. Push until the flap flattens out. Reverse the direction of the flap’s crease and push it downward so that it comes to lie between the layers of the model’s upper edge and points straight out to the left. Pull the flap out to the left until only a small wedge shaped portion of its base remains to the right of the model to form a flat face. Pinch to keep in place.
29. Hold the layers of the model together at the top of the arm. Open up the top edge of the flap folded over in the previous step and push up along its bottom edge. Push until the flap flattens out. Reverse the direction of the flap’s crease and push it downward so that it comes to lie between the layers of the model’s upper edge and points straight out to the right. Pull the flap to the right until its base disappears into the interior of the model. Pinch to keep in place.
30. Hold the layers of the model together at the top of the arm. Open up the top edge of the pointed flap folded over in the previous step and push upward along its bottom edge. Push until the flap flattens out. Reverse the direction of the flap’s crease and push it downward so that it comes to lie between the layers of the model’s upper edge and angles upward. The base of the flap should disappear into the interior of the model. Pinch to keep in place.
31. Hold the layers of the model secure at the top of the arm. Open up the top edge of the pointed flap folded over in the previous step and push up along its bottom edge. Push until the flap flattens out. Reverse the direction of the flap’s crease and push it downward so that it comes to lie between the layers of the model’s upper edge and its very tip protrudes from the man’s face. The base of the point should form a triangular shape at the top of the model. Pinch to keep in place.
32. Use your thumbnail to make an indentation toward the bottom of the man’s face. This forms the man’s mouth and completes the upper body.
33. Hold the layers of the model together at the bottom left. Open up the bottom edge of the bottom pointed flap and push down along its top edge. Push until the flap flattens out. Reverse the direction of the flap’s crease and push downward until the base of the flap come to lie between the layers of the model and the tip points down and to the left. Pull the flap up and straight out to the left as far it will easily go. Pinch to keep in place.
34. Hold the layers of the model secure at the left center. Open up the bottom edge of the flap folded over in the previous step and push down along its top edge. Push until the flap flattens out. Reverse the direction of the flap’s cease and push downward until the base of the flap come to lie between the layers of the model and the tip points straight out to the right. The base of the flap should disappear into the interior of the model. Pinch to keep in place.
35. Hold the layers of the model together at the left center. Open up the bottom edge of the bottom pointed flap and push down along its top edge. Push until the flap flattens out. Reverse the direction of the flap’s crease and push downward until the base of the flap come to lie between the layers of the model and the tip comes up to meet the interior left edge of the model. The tip should not be visible. This will form the man’s knees. Pinch to keep in place.
36. Hold the layers of the model together at center. Bring the tip that was folded to the interior of the model in the previous step down and to the right to form feet. Arrange as desired and pinch into place to complete the model.
37. Use small twigs or toothpicks, glue, scissors, and some colored tissue paper to form a mini-campfire model, if desired.
For more great tips/instruction:
http://www.essortment.com/in/Crafts.General/index.htm